Photo by Jay Weinstein
All three of the fish discussed here are high in omega-3 fats, known to lower cholesterol and promote heart health. The dish provides a healthy balance of protein, fiber-rich vegetables, and complex carbohydrates.
All three of the suggested fish—striped bass, arctic char, and Spanish mackerel—are endorsed by both the Blue Ocean Institute and Environmental Defense as sustainable, eco-friendly choices—i.e., they are not being overfished to near extinction. Clams, which are now mostly cultivated in coastal estuaries, have been found to promote cleaner waters and healthier ecosystems in areas where they're grown.
Feeling good about eating fish used to be easy. It was light in calories, entirely natural, and didn't seem to have any down side. Now fish isn't such a sure thing every time you pick up a fillet. With highly processed fish coming from fish farms, depletion of species, and contaminant scares, we have to be savvy if we want to find pristine fish that we can serve with a clear conscience.
The good news is that many fishermen, fish farmers, and fishery oversight agencies are doing the right thing. For example, sustainable striped bass farming has been so successful in enabling wild populations to rebound that wild "stripers" can be commercially caught again. Wild and farmed striped bass are safely sold side-by-side now.
Arctic char, a close relative of salmon and trout, with luscious, savory pink flesh and heart-healthy omega-3 fats, is also a great eco-choice. Like stripers, these fish are available both wild and farm-raised, and both are of excellent quality. This is important to know, because few fish markets display information about the origins of their fish.
Spanish Mackerel, long prized by American fish lovers for its robust flavor and juicy texture, is now an abundant wild resource, thanks to visionary fisheries management along the East Coast and Gulf regions where the two main populations of this fish roam. Mercury concerns about oily fish continue, but Spanish mackerel has had among the lower alert levels. It's a great choice for sautáing and searing, and an exquisite choice for sushi.
Spaghetti topped with Zucchini, Clams, and Pan-Roasted Fish
Serves 8
This playful enhancement of spaghetti with white clam sauce uses that classic Italian dish as a bed for crisp, juicy American fish. It was taught to me by New England chef and author Jasper White.
2 lbs small clams, such as littlenecks or Manila clams
1 cup dry white wine
3 or 4 large zucchinis
1 lb spaghetti or linguine
¼ cup olive oil
1 large Spanish onion, roughly chopped
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. dried oregano
6 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
2 Tbsp chopped fresh oregano or parsley
2 Tbsp organic butter
2 lbs fish fillets, such as striped bass, arctic char, or Spanish mackerel
1. Put the clams in a covered pot, add the white wine, and steam them over high heat, covered, until all are open, about 5 minutes. Remove most clams from their shells, and roughly chop them. Save about two dozen in the shells for garnish. Strain the broth, transfer it to a saucepan, and simmer it until it reduces to 2 cups. Cut the zucchini lengthwise into very long julienne. Cook the spaghetti al dente, drain, and toss with a few drops of olive oil.
2. Heat all but 3 Tbsp of the olive oil in a large (12") skillet or pot. Add onions, crushed pepper, bay leaves and dried oregano. Cook over medium heat until onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic; cook until it turns white, about 1 minute. Add reduced clam broth and julienne of zucchini. Raise heat to high; cook just until it simmers. Add the spaghetti, and cook until heated through; stir in chopped clams, fresh oregano and butter. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
3. Pat the fish fillets dry, and season with salt and pepper. Heat 3 Tbsp olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet until it shimmers but doesn't smoke. Lay the fillets into the pan, skin side down, and cook until they appear cooked halfway up their sides (4 minutes for thick striper fillets, 1 or 2 for thinner char or mackerel). Turn once; cook 2 minutes more. Adjust the consistency of the spaghetti-zucchini with water or clam broth (it should be saucy). Distribute into serving bowls or plates, and top with bluefish. Drizzle any extra clam sauce over fish. Serve with rustic bread. —Jay Weinstein