Your Manicure-Pedicure

by Kate Auletta

Get a healthy manicure-pedicure with staying power in four easy steps.

Women have been painting their nails since the days of Cleopatra (gold was the first color of choice, for those keeping track). Of course, this was before the advent of the nail salon, and the invention of chemical solvents. Now we have such not-so-lovely health hazards as fungal infections and exposure to toxic chemicals (those fumes smell bad for a reason). Do your own mani-pedi, and you'll sidestep salon health risks, get a longer-lasting polish, even save a few hundred dollars a year. If you must have professional pampering (and we utterly sympathize), call your salon and see if they'll allow you to bring some of your own polish and remover along—not to mention keep that door open for ventilation.

Step 1: Remove the old polish.

Swipe with non-toxic nail polish removers. Acetone, still found in many polish removers, can cause headaches and dizziness, and the oils added to counteract acetone's drying effects compromise the ability of polish to adhere to the nail. Avoid these problems with a non-acetone remover you can find at any drugstore, or with a water-based remover like Acquarella , $6. For an even greener solution, try a soy-based version, like the one offered at New York's Priti Organic Spa, $22.50.

Have a ball with organic cotton. And yes, even your choice of cotton balls can help the environment. Try and use organic cotton balls, like Organic Essential's , $2.49, since conventional "cotton is one of the most heavily sprayed and treated crops," says Kim D'Amato, owner of Priti. Organic cotton is grown without the use of pesticides, chemical fertilizers and many other harmful chemicals.

Step 2: Shape up nails and cuticles.

Get on (emery) board with glass. For durability and stronger nails, use a glass emery board , $8, which will last you forever. "We use glass boards in our salon because I wanted to find an alternative to chopping down trees to file our nails," says D'Amato. "Glass is permanently etched and never becomes worn down. Plus, they reduce the amount of chipping, splitting and peeling of nails and are easily sterilized."

Kill cuticles — but gently, naturally. Cuticle care is the most important part of a neat, professional-looking mani-pedi, and we recommend Dr. Hauschka Neem Nail Oil , $38, and Pen , $17.95, to strengthen nails and soften cuticles. Anti-microbial, -fungal and -inflammatory, Neem oil is very moisturizing, and great for dry skin. The Oil and Pen are BDIH-certified natural , the highest natural beauty standard in Germany.

Step 3: Exfoliate and moisturize skin.

Exfoliate without those way harsh, newfangled, non-biodegradable plastic beads. Instead, get rid of dead skin and indulge your feet more gently, yet thoroughly, with a deluxe exfoliating treatment like Nature Girl's Eco Chic Pink Grapefruit Organic Salt Scrub , $32. The line exclusively uses organically grown ingredients from small, family-run farms. For something a little more hard core, Sierra Stone Pumice , $2.95, is a great, more natural alternative to those harsh boards often used at salons.

Moisturize without the poisons and petroleums. Unlike at most salons, you can choose to moisturize using lotions that don't contain harmful parabens, a preservative linked to various cancers; synthetic fragrances, which can contain undisclosed toxic chemicals; or mineral oils, which are both a petroleum product and often contaminated.

Many leading eco-companies, such as Carol's Daughter, Origins and Stella McCartney, produce paraben-free lotions. As for synthetic fragrances, "the problem is that they can contain lots and lots of different chemicals—and the fragrance recipe is held as a trade secret. So if a company makes a fragrance and uses some highly toxic chemical to make it smell just right, the consumer will never know," says Alexandra Scranton, the Director of Science and Research at Women's Voices for the Earth.

Mineral oils , found in Vaseline and baby oil, vary enormously in quality and can be contaminated with PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons), some of which are linked to cancer. Since the term "mineral oil" is listed blankly on most labels, the consumer can't learn how much is in their products. Mineral oil is also a petroleum product. "From the standpoint of it being based on fossil fuels, it's not a very sustainable or renewable ingredient," Scranton says. Opt instead for vitamin and anti-oxidant rich natural oils like avocado, jojoba, or coconut. Lather your hands with Carol's Daughter Lemon Ginger Mint Manicure in a Jar , $11.50, a paraben-, petroleum- and mineral oil-free lotion that smooths post-filing hands. Or use products from Dessert Essence's Organic line (like the Pistachio Foot Repair, about $7, which uses nut extracts to help skin regenerate). The entire line is free of parabens, artificial fragrances and petroleum-based ingredients and is biodegradable.

Step 4: Get your polish on.

There's some unpretty news about nail paint. How not gorgeous is this: Many salon polishes, including base and top coats, can be harmful to your health, for they contain the "toxic trio:" toluene, dibutyl phthalate, and formaldehyde (used to embalm dead bodies!). Some companies have already removed the toxic trio from their products, such as OPI , Wet N Wild, L'Oreal and Sally Hansen (OPI never included formaldehyde in their polishes, but did in some of their nail hardeners).

A common roadblock many companies face is that the toxins make for thicker polishes and even finishes, which are key for reds, for example. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), which gives polish flexibility, may be a developmental toxin and has been banned from cosmetics in Europe since 2004. Studies have linked DBP — which can be inhaled, absorbed through the skin and eaten in foods — to undeveloped genitals in newborn boys. Formaldehyde is used as a hardener and to create a smooth finish, as is toluene. Inhaling excessive amounts of toluene is dangerous as it can lead to coughing and wheezing, as well as eye, nose, and throat irritation. Toluene enriches the pigment and creates a smooth finish, but breathing it in can cause headaches, dizziness, fatigue and can irritate the eyes, nose, and throat; high-level intake has also been linked to nervous system, liver and kidney damage. Toluene is most dangerous for child-bearing women as it can be transmitted through the placenta to the fetus, and through breast milk. However it's not necessary for expectant moms to avoid salons altogether, says Kayse Gehret, owner of Soulstice polish, "just try and visit a healthier salon — search for "organic" on spaindex.com for one nearest you — and use non-toxic products."

Now, nail the perfect, safe polish. For the safest polish choices, other than widely available brands like OPI or Sally Hansen, consider Gehret's own Soulstice , $30 for five polishes, which is free of sulfates, mineral oil and synthetic fragrances; or Zoya , $34 for six polishes, which was created by a former aesthetician and offers 240 deep rich colors without the toxic trio.

The one disadvantage of toxic-free polishes, both Gehret and D'Amato note, is the longer drying time. If you're in a time crunch, consider Priti's Quick Dry Top Coat , $12.50, the first of its eco-friendly kind.

Check out what you already own. Scary — you can confirm the toxicity levels of nail or other beauty products you currently have by going to cosmeticsdatabase.com , which extensively lists products and the ingredients they contain on state and federal watch lists. The lower the number ranking (such as 0-3), the less harmful it is to you. Warning: This is an addictive website!

Mask your anxieties. Finally, if you love your neighborhood nail salon, but fear the chemicals, breathing masks are not an outlandish concept. "Breathing masks will help you avoid inhaling the dust and potentially toxic particles that arise during acrylic application and filing," says Gehret. Avoid salons that offer acrylic treatments (or artificial nails), because of the heavily toxic plastic resins and glues involved (that's why manicurists often wear masks during the treatment). Then there's always the simple, common-sense solution: "If you fear inhalation," says D'Amato, "sit near an open window or door."